Landing in Malaysia feels comfortable, like home for me, almost. This is strange because I’ve only been here twice before. After moving to my own private 3 seats on my Air Asia flight from Hanoi, we land and before I know it I’m on a bus hurtling towards the city. I drift off, waking a few moments later to the muslim woman next to me breastfeeding her super cute toddling baby. With not an inch of skin exposed, I wonder how she did it. I sneak furtive glances, but can’t get good enough of a look to see the process when she changes sides. Is this allowed? Is it accepted and acceptable? I know what I think, but I don’t make any of the rules.

The boy gets up, wanders the aisles and comes back for another feed just one more time. Again I miss the contortions the woman goes through.

Welcome to Malaysia.

The early morning sun glints and the humidity has yet to settle on the city like a damp blanket, suffocating. But I still sweat as a lug all of my earthly possessions across the cracked concrete and broken tiles of Kuala Lumpur towards the train station. Of course I’m sweating, it may only be 7am but I am wearing all my heaviest clothes - knee high boots, warm jeans - and that 20kg bag on my bag doesn’t help either. I’d look turtle-like were it not for the balancing weight of a second bulbous bag worn back-to-front. It is only a few hundred metres and I enter the cool early morning calm of KL Sentral.

Train ticket purchased, bag checked in and I’m on my way to the soundtrack of business news. I am sad to be leaving Malaysia but an extended stay is required to fulfill my curiosity and I am off on a different kind of adventure.

I chat to an American businessman on the plane and wonder about the differences between where I’ve been and where I’m going. I won’t miss the unwanted male attention, being called ‘girl’ and being told I’m beautiful in the street. I will miss the food, the lovely unexpected friendly conversations and the sweet smiles returned.

Uncertainty abounds, who knows what will happen next, I’m just ready to see my mum, eat some pho and satisfy my calcium craving with some vinamilk yoghurt (because ‘consuming Vinamilk Yoghurt every day also brings you a smooth and flesh complexion’ didn’t you know).

That BNE dude was everywhere

I was deep in that end of holiday hole, but I managed to pull myself out and tick another item of the Kuala Lumpur ‘must do’ list. Well, soft of. Billy implored me to visit Luna Bar for the best KL city views ever, but a little internet research indicated that a better view was available at Sky bar at the Traders Hotel. Either way I was putting myself in a ’smart-casual’ dress environment, willingly. Plus I was aiming for a pre-sunset arrival via public transport. I turn my bag inside out trying to find something appropriate, worried I’d be turned away for the wrong shoes - what the hell is a ‘bermuda’ anyway?

More dressy than I’ve been for weeks, I navigate the drizzly KL streets and make it to the bar early. Way t0o early. They let me in no sweat, I order, settle in and realise that this bar is whack. What tipped me off was the squealing children, splashing and that waiter carrying a pile of towels. This bar, on the 33rd floor has a swimming pool inside it. A swimming pool that drunken revellers fall into, regularly.

Luckily I chose a seat far from the watery death trap because this mojito sure is strong. The view is amazing, and by sunset I’ve sobered up enough to hold my camera steady. Experiencing this view and not falling in the pool was a wonderful way to say goodbye KL, but it doesn’t lessen my sadness at having to leave.

Pretty much guaranteed to get shit on in a bird park. Here it happens before you even get in the door, entry 42RM. Free flight aviary? Yes, but all the most awesome birds are still caged. I can see Ibis, parrots, peacocks and cockatoos at home. But they sure are pretty.

KL Bird Park

There was always a chance that this holiday would see me curled in the foetal position rocking and mumbling, unable to function, alone. Having arrived on the verge of exhaustion to do some hard travelling, even the slightest setback could have had a disastrous effect given my already fragile state. There were hiccups, snorts, and of course the Qantas debacle (who aren’t answering my emails, by the way), but luckily no major explosion knocked my confidence.

Solo travelling isn’t all smooth sailing though, ridiculous taxi fares (it costs 42RM to get from Penang airport in to Georgetown - by comparison my bus ticket from Penang to KL cost 36RM), food tasting options are limited to only the amount you can eat and it does get lonely. I mean, you do meet a cubic megatonne of people, but at some point you go your own way to a new town and start all over again. Which is one of the reasons I jumped at Hong Ching’s offer to meet up when I got to Kuala Lumpur.

Putra Mosque, Putrajaya

A KL resident I met at Mulu National Park, Hong Ching plays tour guide on a grey and drizzly day. How novel to be driven around and not have to worry about getting lost, being ripped off or how I’m going to get home. Plus having company and conversation was a lovely change (see how much we ate for lunch). First stop, lunch (expansive). Second stop, Putrajaya. Third stop, Batu Caves. Fourth stop, best sate ever.

Putrajaya is the planned administrative capital of Malaysia. On a Sunday afternoon it was deserted but for the tourists busses, the occupants of which seemed as smitten by the mosque as I was. An Australian lady I met later said that Malay couples come out here at night for picnics and to court in public. Interesting. I just saw sparkling new buildings and empty boulevards, all spotlessly clean. Out next stop couldn’t have been more different.

Putra Mosque, Putrajaya

Batu Caves is busy and noisy, packed with people, monkeys, chickens and cats. Grubby and used, such a contrast to pristine Putrajaya, and a tourist attraction I had never visited. The huge gold statue of Murugan, the main reason to visit in my opinion, is magnificent in detail and size, imposing. At this point I was feeling very lucky, a lovely afternoon, great company and the opportunity to get out of the city and visit somewhere I wouldn’t have otherwise (thanks Hong Ching!).

To top off an already grand day Hong Ching suggests we have a drink before heading back to town. This mythical drink turns into the Best Sate Ever which deserves its own post, soon.

A spot of site seeing, delicious treats and a new friend, hello KL, I think I might like you.